2, edition 1
A year ago when I ventured
into this project, I never thought I would be able to see "volume
2" of G&S NEWS but here we are. In the past year you could
say I have changed the way G&S Dye communicates with its customers.
The most obvious change was how everyone knows your name. This initial
warm reception opens dialogue with our customers and has only improved
how we respond to your needs.
In 1996, I made it a
mission to improve our collection of books. Our 47 different books
(increase of 18 this year) now cover a wider gammit of interests
and techniques and I intend to continue to search for more. This
year's goal is to improve our paintables line. Currently limited
to fabrics, scarves, T-shirts, bags, aprons and ties, you should
start to see a wider range of additional items in the coming months.
If you have any great suggestion drop me a line, I would love to
hear about it.
Dyeing - (Part 1 of 2)
Everyday someone always
asks about dyeing this fabric, object or garment. My personal favorite
"I've spilled bleach on my clothes, how do I dye over it?".
This two part series will try to give you answers on how to dye
the most common items around along with some trickier ones. Part
one will introduce the dyes used in the market. Part two will be
on Dyeing Tricks & Techniques.
Different fabrics and
weight of fabrics absorb dye at different rates and intensities.
This creates difficulties when you try to match colours or try to
achieve uniform results. A variety of fabrics also require different
types of dyes and chemicals to assist in the dyeing process. Natural
fabrics tend to be the easiest and safest to dye. Synthetic fabrics
like polyester, nylon, acetate, or lycra are more difficult due
to the natural water resistance of the fabrics. Synthetics also
require more heat and stronger chemicals to assure successful dyeing.
The most common fabric
is white cotton. Cotton dyes extremely well and uniform. It is when
you add blends that things get complicated. Cotton fabric or T-shirts
can easily be dyed with any store bought dye (Dylon, Deka or Cushings),
but for best results reactive dyes (Procion
MX) will yield the strongest colours. Procion MX Dyes also dye
every type of natural fibre (rayon, linen, hemp, silk or wool) but
work best on cellulose fibres. They are warm water dyes (dyed around
35oC) which is advantageous for finer fabrics. The ideal dye for
protein fabrics (silk and wool) is acid (Country
Classics). Even though reactive dyes work on these fabrics,
the colours are usually not as brilliant or clear when you use acid
dyes. The "acid" in acid dyes refers to the chemical assist
that you use to activate the dye reaction. Acid dyes have one drawback,
in that they are hot water dyes and must be dyed over a heat source
So how difficult is it
to dye using Procion MX or Country Classic? Over the past few years
we have simplified our immersion
instructions quite a bit, to the point where dyeing is as simple
as following a cooking recipe. If you are interested in receiving
these instructions, we shall be glad to send you a copy by mail,
fax or email.
2: Dyeing Tricks & Techniques
Expected to be launched
early in the new year, our new and improved web site with simpler
navigation, faster downloads and new features prominently displayed.
The most exciting additions are the customer gallery and on-line
Gallery is a place for you to view the wonderful works of our
customers. This is also a great place to contact the artists, as
every piece of work will have a direct link to the artist through
email or their own personal web site. If you wish to be added to
the gallery, please contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org
to get further details.
Q: What are
the differences between a dye and a paint?
A: The following
table lists all the different characteristics of both. It should
help you understand the strengths and limitations of both type of
||can come in powder or liquid form; liquid appears
translucent; hard to determine colour when in solution; powders
do not show true colour also
||usually in a liquid or paste formcolour of paints
are usually the finished colour; paints are not translucent
and are not in solution
||the application of the dyes can be more involved
than paints. Making it more time consuming; the quality gains
are unnecessary or not noticeable for some fabrics
||a multitude of applications are possible; the
ready to use nature of paints make them easy to apply with brush,
squeegee, printing or airbrush; immersion is the only method
that doesn't yield good results
||methods usually done on a molecular level with
the fabric, therefore quite strong
||paints coat the fabric and attach themselves to
the surface of the fabric
||dyes are transparent - this means the base colour
of the fabric affects the dye
||can come in both opaque or transparent, this means
the fabric colour doesn't affect the painted colour.
||all natural fabrics can be dyed with reactive
or acid dye; polyester uses a different dye (difficult to handle
due to the toxicity of the mordants used.)
||paints work on most fabrics, natural or synthetic;
their application is straight forward and require very little
setup or mixing;
||no change to original fabric
||remaining residue does slightly diminish original
fabric's luminosity and hand
||usually by heat in the form of dry/moist heat
or a chemical activator
||usually by dry heat in the form of an oven or
||most dyes in liquid form flow quite easily over
||paints are a bit heavier than dyes slowing down
the flow on fabric
|hand of fabric
||since dyes bond with the molecules of the fabric,
it does not affect the sheen or hand of the fabric; the
dyes become part of the fabric
||paints leave an actual product on top of
the fabric, therefore affecting the hand slightly; most new
paints are indistinguishable from a dye but they still leave
some surface residue.
||most dyes in liquid form are relatively safe but
there are dyes in powder form which requires mixing; the
dust exposure from the dyes and chemicals can be of some concern
||most paints are waterbased, making them quite
safe to use; they are also in liquid, ready to use form; the
only concern when it comes to safety is the ammonia used in
the paints; some paints have more than others
||all direct painting, printing, screening, immersion
||all direct applications are also possible;
not an ideal product for immersion colouring
We are starting off with
100% cotton canvas bags, aprons and lunch bags. These three cotton
canvas items are ideal for painting, stencilling or screening onto.
The cotton bag is 14.5" x 18.5", and the lunch bag is
a cute 8" x 5" with a convenient velcro strap.
Brand new fine
gold, silver markers THAT DON'T BLEED!!! This is perfect for
signing your name or creating accents on all your work. Unlike
the Marvy markers that we introduced a few months ago, these
pens are finer (.8mm) and don't bleed on silk. The gold and
silver are also opaque, making them ideal for signing your
The line also comes
in 10 transparent colours.
Three sizes are available.
They are 6-8, 10-12, and 14-16. They come in white and a few basic
colours. Please inquire on colour availability. For
Simple and Elegant
The perfect little accessory
that adds just a touch of uniqueness to your work area. Made of
fine bone china and imprinted with a dragon motif.
Over the past few editions,
I have introduced and offered a wide range of fabrics for sale.
Always pleasing one group of customers but disappointing others
with the wrong fabrics to put on sale. This edition all coloured fabrics are selling at bolt price. What discount
does that represent? Most of our bolt prices are from 10% to as
high as 23% off the cut price. Please call us for colour availability
and exact sale prices.
A few examples;
Back Satin 19mm 45" wide
8mm 45" wide
|| $ 9.00
|| $ 7.60
16mm 45" wide
Cotton - Black 45" wide
These may only be monthly
sales, but they are just as appealing as the fabric sales.
Colour Scarf Blowout!!!!!
Perfect for microwave
| H6 8"x48"
| H8 11"x57"
green, red (sold out), marine blue, baby blue, orchid pink.
Please note that some
scarves have slight sun fading. See our regular white scarves also.
2 months ago, our new Liquid
Colours are a great success. Many of our initial users
have commented positively on the softness, brightness and
flowability of the paints. We even had an international order
from St. Lucia. He was so thrilled with the product he is
sending us some samples of his work. See it in the "Customer
Gallery" on our web site.
Along with the
100mL size, we have now added 250mL ($11.95) and 1.0L ($34.95)
sizes to the line.
If you have any
finished work using our Liquid Colours, we would love to see
it and post it on the web site. Just contact Dixon
at the Dundas Store.
In the last issue we
mentioned that Rita and I were interested in starting up a silk
guild. We actually plan to meet in late January or early February.
If you are interested please contact us at
(416) 596-0550. If you
had responded to the last edition of G&S News, we shall be contacting
you for time, date and location of the meeting.
Framing is an essential part when direct application
is involved. An evenly taut fabric aids in one's ability to accurately
design and work. Special suspension tools can help save time and
frustrations as opposed to pinning. By allowing the user to fully
adjust the frame, it alleviates the need to build a separate frame
for each size of work. A suspended piece also allows you to paint
right to the edge of the fabric. Both these points are advantageous
when it comes to working with fabrics and scarves.
The shown frame (Diagram
1) uses four L-shaped metal corners with two screws each to stabilize
1"x1" wood arms. By sliding the wood arms to the length
and width required, you will be able to quickly change the frame
size. The silk is attached using suspension hooks (Diagram 2). They
are three prong hooks attached to the stretch bars with rubber bands.
The hooks are very fine so they do not damage the fabrics.
A complete frame with
all the corners (4), hooks (24), elastics (bag), and wood (78"x2,
55"x2) is $60.00. This frame can paint fabrics up to 45"
x 60". You can always purchase longer pieces of wood to accommodate
larger pieces later on.
to make your colours float well in marbling?
If colours sink into
the size, the colours might be too cold, the base might be too thin
OR the colours might require a little thinning.
To thin the colours add
a few drops of Lissapol ND Soap into the Colourless Extender. Add
this solution drop by drop into the colours and test until they
To make the marble base
thicker, mix separately a very thick solution then add it to the
thin solution. Do not add powder directly to the thin solution since
it contains ammonia and the powder will not dissolve properly.
to do the wave technique?
There are two ways to
achieve the molten lava look. One is to lay the sheet of paper down
in a gently waving motion instead of just straight down and the
other is to get someone to rock the bath container while the paper
is being put down.
PROFILE: Dyeing Techniques Workshop
On January 25 and 26th,
1997 (correction from 24 & 25) we are pleased to announce a
two day dyeing course with Betty Conlin. Students will start their
dyeing experience by learning pertinent information about using
and handling the dyes. We shall cover different immersion techniques
for creating even colour distribution, colour gradations, mixing
colours, mottled coloured, visual textures, over-dyeing, textural
effects and discharging. All these techniques are hands on and multiple
pieces will be completed.
Betty uses her fabrics
for quilting and new information will be discussed on how to create
spectacular fabrics that can become the focal point of a piece of
artwork, a quilt or clothing.
For other workshops.
Screen Printing + Transfers
14 & 15
& Sun. February 15 & 16
Transfer on Fabrics
Packed with practical
advice and projects which will appeal to both the beginner
and the more experienced.
This book simply
illustrates how to create beautiful and original batik designs.
It contains ideas for a wall hanging, and a selection of fashion
garments including waistcoats, silk and cotton tops, shirts
and silk scarf.
Silk: Images of Africa
Create your own
Images of Africa on silk with this stunning book.
All the designs,
ranging from panels and cushions to scarves and clothing,
are based on drawings of African wildlife and vegetation and
there are full working instructions for each, including an
easy-to-follow chart which can be enlarged to any size.
The Step By
Step Art of Stencilling
Similar to the
Silk Painting version, this project based book covers all
the necessary tools, tricks and techniques to stencil onto
fabrics, wood, drywall and many others items.
The Step by
Step Art of Silk Painting
This is one of
the best beginner silk painting books I have seen. This full
colour project based book covers all there is to know about
painting with silk dyes or paints. Besides the usual techniques
covered, there are numerous projects to make your own scarves,
clothing, accessories pillows, pictures.
Includes all the
Inventive Art of Japanese Shaped Resist Dyeing
We have started
to carry the definitive book to this wonderful art of Japanese
Shibori Dyeing techniques.
This book unleashes
the potential for creating designs in textiles from the physical
properties of the cloth. The simple fact that cloth tightly
compressed into wrinkles or folds resist the the penetration
of dye can be seen as an opportunity to let the pliancy of
textiles speak in making designs and patterns.
NEWS is designed to be an
informative publication for Canadian textile artists.
A quarterly publication of G&S Dye and Accessories Limited.
to Friday 10:00 am - 6:00 pm
Saturday 10:00 am - 3:00 pm (retail outlet only)
Steelcase Rd. W., #19
Markham, ON L3R 2W2
Dundas St. W., #8
Toronto, ON M5T 2Z5
Phone: (416) 596-0550
Fax: (416) 596-0493